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Than try to uninstall that program in a standard way.įor example, if vcds.exe is found in folder C:\Program Files\Dummy game\**some subfolder**, it most probably belongs to "Dummy game" software package. Try to locate program, to which the process vcds.exe belongs.
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In couple of minutes, seconds if you're lucky, Windows will find all the copies.
Restore point will help you to revert changes, if something'll go wrong. Create Restore point for Windows (not available in Windows XP).It DOES NOT implies that vcds.exe is harmful!īe aware of removing executable files from your computer without deeper knowledge of what you're doing.įirst of all, because of vcds.exe is an executable, there is always a possibility that removing this file MAY damage the operating system or even your data.Īre you still ready to remove vcds.exe? OK, let's go for it.
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How to permanently delete vcds.exe from your computer:įirst, please read this important warning: This article shows a general guide how to remove any file from your computer. Tips for getting it away from the hard disk Removal guide for software 'vcds.exe' from Windows 10, 11 (or even Win7, Win8 and Vista) operating systems. Heaps of other stuff to check.Remove vcds.exe - how to permanently delete the file from your operating system. Also 115, which is the specified boost vs actual. Quote from: vaudiw on November 09, 2009, 04:07:42 pm For a start you should measure block 003, which will give you MAF. hopefully Lemans will be along shortly as he is a wizz with Vagcom and RS4s' If you know the std boost you can also check if the car has been remapped as the remapped ECU will be specifying a higher boost. Apart from when you first floor the throttle the Spec and Act should be with 5-10%. Search or for the readings.īlock 115 will let you know if you have a boost leak. Comparing the MAF output to std will let you know if a) the MAF is on the way out or b) the car has been remapped.
8 (works in the UK but not so accurate here), you can also calculate a FATs time which is another HP measure.
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To do this properly you need to be on a reasonably flat road, 3rd gear and full throttle from 2k to redline (within about 4-5 seconds you will be doing in excess of 160ks so make that a long straight deserted road).įrom the MAF readings you can get an approx HP figure by dividing by.
I think the \ Engine \ Adv Meas Values is a good place to start.Īnd there is a link to this spreadsheet (The "Butt Dyno" Spreadsheet) - I just need to find out where to get the values from.įor a start you should measure block 003, which will give you MAF. Now I just need to find some interesting things to measure. Mod'd it (had to remove a bit of plastic so it would fit) and fired up the software. Sure enough it was all over the place so rather than pulling it just in case, I knew exactly what it was before lifting the covers. Likewise I graphed a Passat 1.8T a while ago: I suspected the WUR so graphed the warm up cycle of rpm/coolant temp/injector volumes to confirm. Not sure if you can get that sort of thing with a generic setup. Something you couldn't really feel through the pedal but it could indicate not the most efficient condition. I've found it faultless, the newer vcds seems to be just that bit slicker than earlier versions.įor example I recently diag'd my TDi and found disparity in injector volumes between the cylinders against boost and rpm ranges. I went this way for the surety if knowing it will work properly on the variety of VW/Audi models I have or will have in time to come. With a licensed version you get updates automatically and full support as mentioned above. I went the full Ross-Tech way with their USB interface cable as wells an adapter to fit the 2x2 for older Audi.
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